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E.Select the just method of pruning by each group of fuchsias

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For pruning fuchsias I apply for the different fuchsia groupings an applied pruning method. So the method of pruning 'Plants of one year' is by me different of that for 'Older plants'. The triphyllas ask - like cross-breedings with in it F.magdalenae - a special method of pruning. And the plants with a weak root ball and plants, of which I will take cuttings in spring, I prune each again in an other way.

.Plants of one year

These plants I prune dearer two weeks further than the other fuchsias, so half September.Then don't prune them too far back but let standing to it 1/3 part of the plant and all leaves. They also get then some Chile saltpetre to get the growth in it again.

I see dearer that the new growing-tips are allready visible before this plants go into the glass-house. Let them well standing outdoors as long as possible; there they are standing namely more cool and more airy, by which there is less chance of existing botrytis on the wounds. However let them there not rain too wet. When the growth is sitting in it well prune them back end March beginning April till between the first and second pair of leaves of the branches we have pruned in autumn.
"It is a pity of the nice offshoots", you will say. But so you get well a plant which is nice compact and not a plant where you can look through on the undersite . You can made cuttings from the pruning-wood where the nice offshoots are sitting on.

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Older plants

These plants I prune in the first week of Oktober. Many of these plants are standing by me directly in the border. They become pruned on the spot and they remain there standing still less one week till the 'bleeding' has stopped. When you dig them up at the same time then becomes used up much of the water that is sitting in the plant without it can become filled up, while the roots are damaged to much. Older plants become pruned back by me till between the first and second pair of leaves from the young stems of that year (therefore I pinch the new offshoots also always after the second pair of leaves, so prune between the branching and the first pair of leaves and the young wood).

The leaves what there then still are sitting on let them well sitting; they fall off of itself after about two weeks. Doing so you damage not the new axils which are sitting under it. And so you hold nice compact plants which ask still few space in the glass-house and they can exist for years.

Older plants  - In the garden from Gerrit van Veen the fuchsias are standing directly in the border. Here a photo after the pruning in the first week of Oktober. With the in this article discribed method of planting out directly in the border and the way of wintering afterthat. he has gathered very good experiences.

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Triphylla's

Young triphyllas are treated as here above is described under 'Plants of one year'. Older triphyllas become pruned in model, by which I well take care that there remain sitting less two pair of leaves, so between the second pair of leaves and the branching.
Then I let them standing outdoors at least one week for drying up the wounds. They get still one time Chile saltpetre to get in it the growth. Pinch them in spring after the third pair of leaves. Take care that this plants are standing in light and warm (10°C, place them for example above in the glass-house).
NB. When the plants run out well in spring I prune them still one time between the first and second pair of leaves of the year before. By this excist still a more compact plant.
Plants from which one of the cross-breeding parents is F.magdalenae and Species

Examples of this varieties you find in the series WALZ-musicinstruments. In the first instance I treat these plants in the same way as the further described group triphyllas.

Well I take care that I have from such a cultivar a good cutting, which I have allready made end August. Is this cutting missing then must the plants without pruning in the glass-house. Mostly these plants desire also the most light and most warm places in the glass-house. In spring when the growth is sitting well in it I prune them in the same way as is described by the triphyllas. Fuchsia species are pruned and treated in the similar way.

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'WALZ Bella'

Plants with a weak root ball

Examples of this are'La Campanella', 'Auntie Jinks','Rosea', 'Foline', 'Foolke' and cross-breedings of this. The most easy method is the following. Made of these plants cuttings and throw away the old plants. When you want yet wintering the old plants, prune them then not to far back and place them after it in small pots. Take care that they aren't standing too wet, so be economical with giving water. Prune them back in spring as is described by plants of one year. This plants also may not stand colder than 10°C.

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Plants of which we will take cuttings in spring

It goes by this about older plants, while on the younger plants mostly enough cuttings are sitting to cut off. Didn't prune some branches not so far back when further is described by 'Older plants', but prune them back till to the second pair of leaves after the first branching of this year; and let the leaves sitting. In March then here wil stand up nice cuttings. When the cuttings are cut off these branches become further pruned back between the first pair of leaves and the branching.

Gelderse Fuchsia Info-site - November 2008